Story of the Month
Details make perfection …
… and perfection is not a detail!
With physical fashion shows coming back, the fashion world is finally returning to a new normality. We highlight our favourite looks and uses of materials in the Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collections.
At Schiaparelli, their Artistic Director Daniel Roseberry delivered 24-carat gold couture, with magnificent interpretations of classic embroidery from Schiap’s 1938 Zodiac Collection, sculptural gravity-defying living jewellery and continued to redefine the house codes. Over at Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri was more interested in the subtleties and craftsmanship in an Haute Couture collection. The visual simplicity of her silhouettes was belied by the dizzyingly intricate handiwork that her ateliers achieved, with garments entirely created out of embroidery and a subdued palette.
At Jean Paul Gaultier, the guest designer this season was Y/Project’s Glenn Martens, who took to the task with aplomb turning out a stellar collection. Breton stripes had coral sprouting out of them, taffeta looks had complex wiring structures hidden inside them to create cloud-like forms, knitted looks revealed body, and bondage was softened with ribbons. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli redefined form by using ten varied fit models instead of the traditional one to create his silhouettes. He schooled us in colour and scale to give us new shapes fit for the future.
Chanel’s artistic director Virginie Viard looked to the ’20s and the feminine side of constructivism to give us a delicate collection that floated down the runway, showered in sequins, embroidery, and meticulous artisanal techniques. Viard collaborated with artist Xavier Veilhan on the set design, who created the perfect backdrop for her elegant offer. Also, we particularly enjoyed Viktor & Rolf, Elie Saab, Rahul Mishra, and Roland Van der Kamp – all of whom pushed the bars of Haute Couture construction and embellishment higher this season.
Finally, Alexis Mabille gave us butterflies – literally. It was hard not to fall in love with his collection that had delicate metallic butterflies adorning the models; a romantic touch to his otherwise sensual, yet defiantly wearable, twist on couture – “It traces the body almost like a drop of perfume or a hint of make-up” (Mabille to Vogue.com)
All images are credited in the image.