Ce mois-ci, nous expérimentons un nouveau matériau dans notre gamme de matériaux durables : CocoRub. Le matériau lui-même est composé uniquement de fibres de coco et de latex naturel, ce qui le rend entièrement renouvelable et biodégradable. Nous l’avons transformé de plusieurs façons en utilisant des méthodes respectueuses de l’environnement : collage à chaud avec du PU recyclable le rendant imperméable, coloration avec une application de peinture écologique à base d’eau, et enfin, découpage en bandes et tissage pour une sensation tridimensionnelle.
“La mode est architecture: c'est une question de proportions.” Coco Chanel
Si l’architecture est l’art d’habiller des espaces et la mode l’art d’habiller le corps, alors l'acte du corps qui se déplace dans les espaces est la rencontre primaire des deux. Un moment éphémère, où la mode envahit l'architecture et l'architecture enveloppe le corps. Il existe de nombreux créateurs de mode célèbres inspirés par l'architecture, qui ont d’ailleurs souvent étudie ce domaine avant de se concentrer sur la mode, y compris des personnalités comme Pierre Balmain, Tom Ford, Gianni Versace, et Pierre Cardin.
Il est cependant rare de trouver un exemple aussi sensible de rencontre entre la mode et l'architecture que la récente collaboration entre la créatrice de mode Iris Van Herpen et Neutelings Riedijk Architects de Rotterdam pour le Naturalis Biodiversity Center à Leiden, aux Pays-Bas. Neutelings Riedijk Architects a remporté l'appel d'offres ouvert en 2013 pour la rénovation du musée d'origine, y compris la construction d'une extension de 37000 mètres carrés, et a immédiatement pensé à collaborer avec la styliste Iris Van Herpen.
“Nous voulions évoquer la nature dans tous ses éléments - biodiversité, géologie, tectonique - et ne pas le faire dans l’esthétique du XIXe siècle comme on l’entend au premier degré. D'où l’importance de l’intervention d’Iris.” Michiel Riedijk, architecte principal du projet dans le New York Times, octobre 2019
Les formes imitent les ondulations de la soie plissée ou l'érosion par l'eau qui se produit depuis des milliers d'années, donnant l'illusion que le bâtiment est en perpétuel mouvement, tout en étant à la fois passé et futur.
"L'intention n'était pas vraiment de m'éloigner de mon processus de couture, mais plutôt de l'immobiliser et de le désincarner", a déclaré Iris Van Herpen à Dezeen, en août 2019.
Les boutiques de luxe quand elles dévoilent leurs vitrines de Noël, nous emmènent dans un voyage fantastique et féerique, mais l’extérieur n’est pas l’unique spectacle, les marques s’appliquent à créer aussi de merveilleux univers à l’intérieur qui nous remplissent les yeux et le coeur de l’esprit de Noël. Nous avons fait un tour dans les grands magasins de Paris, pour voir les décorations de cette année.
Credit Photo: All photos courtesy the stores cited
This month we experiment with a new material in our sustainable material library: CocoRub.The material itself is composed solely of coconut fibres and natural latex, making it fully renewable and biodegradable. We transformed it in a number of ways using eco-friendly methods: heat bonding it with recyclable PU making it impermeable, colouring it with water-based eco-paint application, and finally, cutting it into strips and weaving it for a three dimensional feel.
“Fashion is architecture: it is a matter of proportions.” Coco Chanel
If architecture is the act of dressing spaces, and fashion is the act of dressing the body, then the act of the body moving through spaces is the primary meeting of the two. An ephemeral moment, where fashion invades architecture and architecture envelopes the body cocooning it. There are countless examples of fashion designers being inspired by architecture, and there are many celebrated fashion designers who first studied architecture, before focussing on fashion, than you may realise, including such luminaries as Pierre Balmain, Tom Ford, Gianni Versace, and Pierre Cardin.
It is, however, rare to find such a sensitive example of fashion meeting architecture as the recent collaboration between fashion designer Iris Van Herpen and Rotterdam’s Neutelings Riedijk Architects for the Naturalis Biodiversity Center in Leiden, Netherlands. Neutelings Riedijk Architects won the open call in 2013 to renovate the original museum, including the development of a 400,000 square foot extension, and they immediately thought of collaborating with fashion designer Iris Van Herpen.
“We wanted to evoke nature in all its elements — biodiversity, geology, tectonics — and not do so in a straightforward 19th-century manner. Hence, Iris.” Michiel Riedijk, the project’s lead architect in The New York Times, October 2019
The forms emulated undulating wave forms in pleated silk, or the water erosion that occurs over thousands of years, making the building look like it is in perpetual movement, whilst feeling both ancient and brand-new at the same time.
"The intention really was not to go away from my couture process too much, but instead to still it, and to disembody it" Iris Van Herpen, speaking to Dezeen in August 2019.
Luxury stores make grand gestures when they unveil their Christmas windows, taking us on fairytale-like fantastic journeys, but something we may take for granted is the wondrous interior touches they apply that fill us full of Christmas spirit once we are inside their stores. We took a trip around the department stores in Paris, to check out this years holiday interiors.
Credit Photo: All photos courtesy the stores cited
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