STORY OF THE MONTH
“Virgil Was Here”


Photo Credit: Instagram post by Hans Ulrich Obrist @hansulrichobrist

 

 

Everything I do is for the 17-year-old version of myself

Virgil Abloh

When we heard the news that the artistic director for Louis Vuitton and Off-White founder Virgil Abloh had passed on Sunday 28th November, it seemed like a mistake. The 41-year-old creative had achieved so much in such a short life, with recognition and influence that defied his young years. It was terribly sad to learn that he had been battling a rare form of cancer for the past two years in privacy while delivering project after project, flying around the world, djing, designing, creating, directing, inspiring and changing the world for so many. He was a champion of others and firmly believed in the power of change, and made it happen.

 

Within my practice, I contribute to a Black canon of culture and art and its preservation. This is why, to preserve my own output, I record it at length.

‘A Manifesto According to Virgil Abloh’, July 2020 for Louis Vuitton menswear SS21

 

And, record it he did. To say Abloh was prolific would be a huge understatement. His energy, creativity and generosity will be sorely missed.

 

To celebrate his life, we take a look at some of the incredible windows and pop up stores by Louis Vuitton that Abloh’s collections and designs were showcased in. May his legacy live on.

 

As we collectively resurge, consider this my manifesto: as a presence of colour within the fashion establishment, I commit to inclusivity, unity, diversity, and individuality. I will continue to employ diverse candidates, financially support BIPOC and LGBTQ+ causes, shed light on businesses owned by BIPOC and LGBTQ+ individuals, work on public-facing initiatives that showcase BIPOC and LGBTQ+ role models, and assist organisations that promote more inclusive workforces. This is my invitation to move forward together with awareness, hope and determination. You are witnessing unapologetic Black Imagination on display.

‘A Manifesto According to Virgil Abloh’, July 2020 for Louis Vuitton menswear SS21

 

Credit Photo: posted by Anders christian Madsen on instagram @anderschristianmadsen

‘A Manifesto According to Virgil Abloh’, July 2020 for Louis Vuitton menswear SS21

& portrait of Virgil Abloh by Anders Christian Madsen

May Abloh’s legacy live on, and his manifesto and oeuvre continue to inspire and help the industry “to move forward together with awareness, hope and determination” towards a better future.

 

I’ve been on this focus, in terms of my art and creativity, of getting adults to behave like children again. That they go back into this sense of wonderment. They start to stop using their mind and they start using their imagination.

Voice of Virgil Abloh, heard at his final, posthumous, menswear SS22 show for Louis Vuitton in Miami.

 

#ASLOVES
E-Waste Innovation


This month #asloves the Common Sands Project glass tiles conceived by Snøhetta and Studio Plastique, manufactured by Fornace Brioni, recycling the glass from microwaves, ovens, and post-consumer electronic goods.
Due to the imperfections developed during use, and the inherent differences in primary applications, post-consumer electronic glass is very rarely recycled as it cannot be transparent. Common Sands Project pushes this to the forefront to develop a terrazzo-like surface that celebrates these imperfections, producing a mottled semi-translucent material in tile format. The tiles can be used in architecture and interior design applications, and their unique proposal will mine an ever-increasing primary source:

 

“Glass has material properties excellent for recycling, but EU directives on effectively processing glass from electronic waste (E-waste) do not currently exist. Sand is a finite resource, and as the volume of E-waste is increasing rapidly worldwide, we need strategies and solutions.”

Snøhetta

 

The project is still in the ongoing prototype stages, but they have already developed two sizes for the tiles, and have the possibility of large scale production with their manufacturing partner Fornace Brioni, pending classification. 

Photo credit: all images courtesy of snøhetta

Fashion
Se sentir Beau et Bien !

Notre équipe a choisi – et commenté – ses looks préférés parmi les récentes collections printemps-été 2022 présentées à Paris et vous dévoile sa wishlist pour l’été prochain !

Collages et textes: American Supply
Credit Photos: Vogue Runway & Bernhard Willhelm

Story Of The Month
Return of the FIAC !


After a digital-only fair last year, followed by the planned closure of the Grand Palais building which has housed the FIAC since 2006 and the situation with the ongoing pandemic, the future was a little uncertain for this year’s physical edition of the FIAC (Foire Internationale d’Art Contemporain) … We were delighted to discover that the recently built Grand Palais Ephémère in the Champs-de-Mars, next to Paris’ Eiffel Tower, would house the 47th edition of the fair, gathering together over 200 international galleries.

 

The Grand Palais Ephémère was conceived by Wilmotte & Associés, and the structure of the building is designed to be modular so that it can be reused in multiple configurations after its removal from the Champ-de-Mars in autumn 2024.

Photo: Le Grand Palais Éphémère © Collection Rmn - Grand Palais © Patrick Tourneboeuf - Tendance Floue (https://www.grandpalais.fr/en/node/51552)
The modularity and use of sustainable structural materials for the Grand Palais Ephémère make the new building environmentally focussed and in line with our own ongoing sustainable research.

 

The wood used for the structure is PEFC certified, from sustainably managed forests, and the double-skin that encloses the building has strong acoustic, thermal and ventilation properties, which helps to reduce overall energy costs. The transparent fabric visible from the outside is made of mineral and non-petroleum based polymers, generating 90% less energy in the manufacturing process than glass and it is entirely recyclable.

 

We chose some of our favourites from this year’s edition in the slideshow above!

Fashion
Looking Good and Feeling Fine!

Our team choose – and commented on – their favourite looks from the recent Spring/Summer 2022 collections in Paris and show you what’s on their fashion wishlist for next summer!

 

Collages: American Supply
Credit Photos: Vogue Runway & Bernhard Willhelm

 

 

 

 

Art
Martin Margiela a Toujours été un Artiste

An experience that changes nothing is hardly worth having.
Martin Margiela

 

 

Martin Margiela reste l’un des créateurs de mode les plus emblématiques de tous les temps, célèbre pour son utilisation de matériaux peu orthodoxes et son approche artistique de la confection et de la création de mode. Il apprécie particulièrement les vieilles perruques, les tableaux, les assiettes cassées et les tissus vintage, qu’il transforme en vêtements, se moquant des méthodes de production traditionnelles du milieu de la mode.

 

Il a mystérieusement quitté sa marque éponyme à la fin des années 2000, après son acquisition par le groupe OTB de Renzo Rosso en 2002. Il reste aujourd’hui une figure mythique du monde de la mode, masquant toujours sa véritable identité.

 

Martin n’est plus là depuis longtemps. Il est là sans être là. Nous avons une toute nouvelle équipe de design à l’œuvre. Nous nous concentrons sur une énergie jeune et réaliste pour le futur; c’est vraiment Margiela pour l’année 2015.” 

Renzo Rosso, WGSN, 2009

Photo: Marcio Madeira, 'From Martin Margiela Circa 2006, Lessons in Resilience', BY LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON May 13, 2020. (https://www.vogue.com/article/past-present-maison-margiela-spring-2006)
Le documentaire “Margiela in His Own Words“, sorti l’année dernière, a renforcé le mythe, Martin s’y exprimant bien en personne mais ne montrant jamais que ses mains. Au sujet de son souhait de rester anonyme, il a déclaré : “Je savais que je pourrais donner plus si je me sentais protégé” et cela a certainement contribué à investir ses créations d’un mystérieux pouvoir d’attraction qui aurait peut-être été atténué s’il avait donné un visage à sa marque.

 

​​Un peu plus d’une décennie s’est écoulée depuis les dernières créations de Margiela en personne, mais cette période prend fin grâce à cette première exposition éponyme “Martin Margiela” à l’espace Lafayette Anticipations, organisée par sa directrice, Rebecca Lamarche-Vadel. L’exposition établit, à juste titre, que Margiela a toujours été un artiste et présente pour la première fois au public ses diverses créations artistiques. Margiela s’est concentré sur la production de ces diverses œuvres d’art au cours de la dernière décennie, depuis qu’il n’est plus sous le feu des projecteurs de la mode. L’exposition elle-même est une expérience à la fois immersive et labyrinthique, dont les œuvres ponctuent les allées et les angles, rejoignant par instant sa célèbre interprétation de la mode, renforçant ainsi son intégrité et sa légitimité en tant qu’artiste.

Posted on Instagram by Rebecca Lamarche-Vadel, 26 October: https://www.instagram.com/p/CVfScxHMb86/

Si l’on a jamais douté que Martin Margiela était un artiste, cette exposition devrait remettre les pendules à l’heure – à ne pas manquer.

 

 

 

 

 

‘Martin Margiela’, Martin Margiela, Lafayette Anticipations, Paris

Exposition: 20 Octobre 2021 – 2 Janvier 2022.

https://www.lafayetteanticipations.com/fr/exposition/martin-margiela

Story Of The Month
Le Retour de
la FIAC !

Après une version digitale de l’événement l’année dernière, puis la fermeture planifiée du Grand Palais qui accueille la FIAC depuis 2006 et enfin le contexte actuel lié à la pandémie, l’avenir était un plus qu’incertain pour cette nouvelle édition “physique” de la FIAC (Foire Internationale d’Art Contemporain)… Nous avons été ravis de découvrir que le Grand Palais Ephémère, récemment construit au Champs-de-Mars à côté de la Tour Eiffel, accueillerait la 47e édition de la foire, qui rassemble plus de 200 des plus grandes galeries internationales.

 

Le Grand Palais Ephémère a été conçu par Wilmotte & Associés. Sa structure a été pensée de sorte à ce que le bâtiment soit modulable, afin de pouvoir être réutilisé dans différentes configurations suite à son retrait du Champ-de-Mars à l’automne 2024.

Photo: Le Grand Palais Éphémère © Collection Rmn - Grand Palais © Patrick Tourneboeuf - Tendance Floue (https://www.grandpalais.fr/en/node/51552)
Avec sa modulabilité et ses matériaux de construction durables, le Grand Palais Ephémère incarne une nouvelle génération de bâtiments, respectueux de leur environnement et en ligne avec notre propre recherche constante de durabilité.

 

Le bois utilisé pour la structure est certifié PEFC, issu de forêts gérées durablement, et la double paroi qui la recouvre possède de solides propriétés acoustiques, thermiques et de ventilation, ce qui contribue à réduire ses dépenses énergétiques globales. Le tissu transparent visible de l’extérieur est composé de polymères minéraux, et donc non issus du pétrole. Ces polymères d’origine minérale consomment 90% d’énergie en moins que le verre dans leur processus de fabrication, et sont entièrement recyclables.

 

Découvrez nos favoris de cette édition de la FIAC dans le diaporama ci-dessus !

Art
Martin Margiela has Always been an Artist

An experience that changes nothing is hardly worth having.
Martin Margiela

 

 

Martin Margiela remains one of the most iconic fashion designers of all time, famed for his use of unorthodox materials and artist-like approach to dressmaking and fashion design. He favours old wigs, canvases, broken plates, and vintage fabrics, that he turns into clothing usurping the traditional fashion production-line methodologies. 

 

He mysteriously left his namesake brand late-00’s after the acquisition by Renzo Rosso’s OTB Group in 2002, remaining a mythical figure in the fashion world up to this day, as he continues to conceal his identity. 

 

Martin has not been there for a long time. He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015.” 

Renzo Rosso, WGSN, 2009

Photo: Marcio Madeira, 'From Martin Margiela Circa 2006, Lessons in Resilience', BY LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON May 13, 2020. (https://www.vogue.com/article/past-present-maison-margiela-spring-2006)
The documentary ‘Margiela in His Own Words’, released last year, reinforced the myth, with Martin voicing it and showing only his hands. On his decision to remain anonymous he stated, “I knew I could give more if I felt protected” and it certainly gave the clothes a mischievous power that perhaps would have been lessened with a face to the name. 

 

​​A little longer than a decade has passed since we were treated to Margiela’s personal creative output, but that time has come to an end with the eponymously titled ‘Martin Margiela’ debut exhibition at Lafayette Anticipations curated by their director, Rebecca Lamarche-Vadel. The exhibition proposes, rightfully so, that Margiela has always been an artist and presents his diverse art practice for the first time to the public. Margiela has focussed on producing these diverse artworks in the last decade, since his departure from the fashion spotlight. The exhibition itself is an immersive labyrinthine experience, the works punctuating its corridors and corners, seamlessly segueing in and out of his celebrated fashion practice, reinforcing its artistic integrity and validity.

Posted on Instagram by Rebecca Lamarche-Vadel, 26 October: https://www.instagram.com/p/CVfScxHMb86/
If there was ever any doubt that Martin Margiela was an artist, this exhibition should set the record straight – not to be missed.

 

 

 

 

‘Martin Margiela’, Martin Margiela, Lafayette Anticipations, Paris

Exhibition dates: 20th October 2021 to 2nd January 2022.

https://www.lafayetteanticipations.com/fr/exposition/martin-margiela